"A river nestled in a valley in the heart of the bush. I am in Africa. How lucky. It's my first experience of the Smalblaar."
The Smalblaar river ? It is so lekker* !
In South Africa, and particularly in Cape Town, there are few rivers that don't overheat in the summer and where trout can survive and reproduce under favorable conditions.
However, about an hour from Cape Town, there is a substantial mountain range that is home to beautiful rivers with crystal-clear waters and splendid rainbow trout.
Rainbow trout over 20 cm in size with unique colors. The setting immediately immerses you in the heart of Africa. You fish alone in a valley amidst the bush. No one sees you, and you won't see anyone all day.
It's a unique experience. It's the Smalblaar River.
*it is so lekker = it is too cool ! in afrikaan
"The Smalblaar is the most popular river for fly-fishing enthusiasts in South Africa. And for good reason. The water is crystal clear, with a slight brownish tint, the earth is red, and you are surrounded by the bush. You truly feel like you're in Africa... It's amazing! And it's teeming with fish."
The Cape Town Piscatorial Society, what is it ?
A name that feels straight out of a Charles Dickens novel, but without it, there would be no river fishing in the Western Cape.
All these rivers are managed by the Cape Town Piscatorial Society, which oversees about ten of the most beautiful and interesting rivers in the Western Cape. They are divided into 'beats' or sections.
It's a unique but straightforward organization: you obtain a membership card for the season or just for the day, you book the river section you're interested in ('beat') for the day, and all of this is done through email. In essence, you get to have a private section to yourself.
The primary reason for this system is to prevent excessive fishing pressure. At most, there will be 4 to 5 anglers on the entire river per day, depending on the number of beats available for that river.
However, the CTPS enforces two essential fishing conditions: fly fishing exclusively and 'no kill,' meaning catch-and-release only.
What to fish un the Smalblaar ?
In this article, I will only discuss the Smalblaar River and its secrets because it is the largest, the most renowned, and where you can find the biggest specimens.
From a piscatorial perspective, you will find a significant population of purely wild rainbow trout with unique colors that bear no resemblance to european rainbow trouts.
"Trout ranging from 20 to 30 cm are quite common. On a good day, you can catch between 5 and 10 of them, especially in October and November."
There are also small Black Bass that can be found in areas with slower currents (please note that the CTPS advises against releasing these bass into the water as they are considered invasive predators of the trout). Additionally, there are a few other small endemic fish species of little interest.
What are the best beats ?
"On the Smalblaar River, my two favorite beats are Beat No. 2 and the "Transport Beat."
Beat No. 2 is the most versatile on the entire river. It alternates between medium-sized pools, flats, and a few large pools.
For fishing there, I would advise you to only fish with dry flies and arrive very early in the morning, around 6:30 AM, to avoid fishing in the afternoon when the temperature becomes oppressive, and the trout become lethargic.
Around ten in the morning, when the air is still pleasant and not stifling, mayflies hatch, and it's a feeding frenzy. Trout are rising everywhere.
Unfortunately, it's often a more exciting spectacle than an effective one. Unless you find THE fly, you won't get any strikes.
In my opinion, the Transport Beat is the most underrated stretch of the river among the South African anglers I've met. The reason: the river runs alongside the road for about 100 meters. It's not wild enough for them! The upside for us: the fishing pressure on this section is much lower than on the more renowned Beat No. 2 and Beat No. 6. And the catches are usually more substantial.
"The Transport Beat is somewhat overlooked by South Africans. It's not remote enough for them! The upside: there is lower fishing pressure there!"
The Transport Beat is a spot that alternates between large shallow flats and fast-moving, clear water with a relatively weak current. Dry fly fishing is the perfect choice here.
Further along in the spot, you'll enter a heavily wooded area where it becomes challenging to fly fish. Nevertheless, you can still find some beautiful fish in small pockets of water. It's a bit complicated...
But which fly did it bite !
For dry flies, I've always used a set of 5 classic flies... and one special one, all purchased locally from Upstream Fishing à Wynberg:
Parachute Adams
Flying Ant
Elk Hair Caddis Dun
Damsel, and Dragonfly
And an imitation of giant mayflies, which might seem oversized to some anglers but turns out to be a killer on these South African trout... and also in France (see my articles on the lakes in Chamonix).
The little anecdote...Unreal !
We were fishing with my father, and suddenly, he spotted shapes crossing the river in front of us. He has -10 vision in each eye! He called me and asked what it was: big baboons crossing the river. We heard a loud noise behind us: the same scene...
We mentioned it to the seller at Upstream, and he just smiled, not at all surprised...
Good to know / Where is the fishing spot ?
To fish this spot, you have two alternatives:
Contact the Cape Town Piscatorial Society. Vicky, who is incredibly friendly, will respond promptly and provide you with essential information, including GPS coordinates and, most importantly, access details to the beat. Without these coordinates, you have little chance of finding your way to the river unless you cut through the bush, which is the best way to get lost and have some unpleasant encounters (especially with baboons).
Alternatively, you can go through a guide at Upstream Fishing, a highly professional outfit that organizes trips to the rivers of the Western Cape. Personally, I used to go there to buy my flies. They offer high-quality flies for fifteen rands. Visit Upstream Fishing.
Same recommendation as for the Elandspad outing. Plan to finish your fishing session no later than three to four hours, as the sun sets quickly in Cape Town (around 5 PM in the fall and winter), and if you have to return to Cape Town (an hour's drive), it's best to avoid driving at night in South Africa.
Also to visit in the area
In short, make a detour to Stellenbosch and even Franschhoek (a bit further but a little piece of France in South Africa). These are two wine towns with apparently excellent wine, according to my father and his South African friends.
My mother, who doesn't like wine, recommends the fantastic burgers at De Vrije. "Horribly good." Address: 13 Drostdy Street, Stellenbosch Monday – Sunday: 12:00 PM – 8:00 PM
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